Match of the week

My top food and wine pairings of 2020
Back in March when Covid first hit I remember thinking ‘no-one’s going to want to think about food and wine pairing’ and put my match of the week feature on hold.
How wrong I was! Turned out that home cooking and pairing delicious drinks with it was one of the highlights of this bizarre year. And because I tended to reach for a bottle that was to hand rather than choosing a wine I knew I liked off a wine list it produced some interesting new combinations - almost every one a winner
I’ve picked out - with difficulty - some of the ones I found most intriguing but if you scroll through my Match of the Week page you’ll find others.
Back at the beginning of 2020 when we could still go to restaurants I had a brilliant meal at Richard Corrigan’s then newly opened Daffodil Mulligans of which this was the highlight. Crubeens are deep friend pigs’ trotters and the match with Gibney’s stout, which was also a real discovery, was spot on.
Cherries and plums with Central Otago pinot noir
Amazing to think I was travelling around New Zealand in the first part of the year. Since I got back in February I haven’t been abroad - a first in recent memory. One of the (many) highlights was a chicken parfait with plums and cherries from chef Des Smith at the Hunting Lodge, two elements which skilfully picked out the flavours in a Central Otago pinot noir.
If you’re a fan of the dark, sweet, sticky meat that is ox cheek there were two good pairings this year, a nero d’avola and - perhaps even better - a full-bodied 2016 Goru 38 Barrels Jumilla from Southern Spain. Just cracking!
Beetroot and goat cheese macarons with pet nat rosé
Another unexpected and really good pairing at a lovely new restaurant I’m dying to go back to called Osip in Bruton. Savoury macarons with a gently sparkling dry rosé made in a style the producer calls ‘Paris wine bar’!
Thai green curry and English rosé
One of the early wine matches of lockdown and one I absolutely wouldn’t have anticipated - a Thai green curry with a pretty pinot-based rosé from my local (to Bristol) Dunleavy vineyard. So good!
Koftas with tahini and orange wine
I’ve been increasingly into orange wine this past year, not least cos it goes with many dishes and ingredients that work with red wine. Here’s one from Sami Tamimi’s Falastin, one of my favourite cookbooks of 2020. The orange wine-friendly tahini is the element that really keys it in.
Pasta was one of the staples of lockdown suppers but cacio e pepe has overtaken carbonara as my favourite. And Sicilian Frappato - a light Sicilian red - makes a great match for it.
Korean meatballs with mango lime and ginger gin
Korean food isn’t the easiest to match with wine especially when it includes spicy gochujang chilli paste but I would never have guessed that a G & T (made with my friend Romy Gill’s mango, lime and ginger gin) would be the perfect match. The recipe comes from another good friend, Judy Joo’s book Korean Soul Food.
Paella with pork, chorizo and spinach and palo cortado
Sherry is always on my annual list of top wine pairings but it’s often fino rather than nuttier palo cortado. With pork rather than seafood in the paella it was bang on though
Rainbow trout ceviche and Western Australia riesling
My first attempt at making ceviche and I was quite proud of it I must say! Not a revolutionary pairing but a very successful one with a Rocky Gully riesling.
Meursault and black truffle crisps
Probably the most popular pairing of last year judging by the response on instagram. And what a Meursault! And possibly the best ever chardonnay (or champagne) snack
Cote Hill Blue and blackberry mead
One of my top discoveries of 2020 - Welsh producer Afon Mel’s range of meads. The blackberry one went particularly well with another great find - a brie-style Cote Hill Blue from Lincolnshire. You can find my piece on Britain’s new blues in Club Oenologique magazine.
Sticky chicken tulips with sercial madeira
Madeira has a bit of a fusty image so probably wouldn’t be the sort of drink you’d think of pairing with chicken ‘tulips’ aka spicy chicken wings. But it really was sensationally good and if the posh wine club 67 Pall Mall can do it so can you! (You can find the recipe here)
Dumplings and grand cru Chablis
Even the word dumplings doesn’t suggest wine, let alone a grand cru but we’re talking classy dumplings here laden with lobster and truffles and served with a decadently rich velouté. At the utterly splendid Bob Bob Ricard where the food is designed to show off the world’s most prestigious wines
Crab mac’n’cheese and champagne
Another indulgent wine match with what what turned out to be one of my favourite recipes of 2020 - Nigella’s crab mac’n’cheese. Appropriately (it turned out) paired with champagne
Pear watercress and chickpea salad and viognier
One of those serendipitous pairings I was talking about in the intro: a viognier I happened to have open from a tasting with a dish I was trying out from Sabrina Ghayour’s Simply. Really spot on - it even coped with the harissa dressing.
Christmas cake and Rutherglen muscat
The final match of the year - and a perfect one - Christmas cake and gloriously Christmas cakey Rutherglen muscat. It also works with mince pies so may have to become an annual fixture.
What was your favourite match - or matches - of 2020?

10 top food pairings for South African wines
If you’ve visited the Cape Winelands you’ll know what an amazing food and drink scene it has but you may still wonder what sort of dishes to order in a restaurant or to pair with South African wines at home.
Many of course are obvious. On my recent trip there was a LOT of lamb and cabernet sauvignon but you don’t need me to tell you what a classic pairing that is. Chenin blanc and Cape white blends also stood out for their versatility but the big surprise to me was how well the country’s rich chardonnays went with a lot of the food (including an umami-rich beef broth). And the new bright, juicy grenaches and cinsaults are just delicious with meat and fish alike.
So here are 10 pairings that stood out for me and which could well work for you too.
1. Croissants and vintage fizz
We all know champagne is a good accompaniment for brunch but have you stopped to analyse why that might be? The answer according to a breakfast tasting at the Orangerie at Le Lude is that croissants are brilliant with bubbly, especially if it's a toasty vintage MCC* like the Le Lude 2012 (available in the UK from Hard to Find Wines). Weekend breakfasts may never be the same again . . .
* méthode cap classique - South Africa's name for the champagne method
2. Melon salsa and chenin blanc
One of the many good matches at Creation which is known for its imaginative food and wine pairing programme was an appetiser of warm flatbreads with a tomato, cucumber and melon salsa - the melon being the element that made the chenin sing. It's not available, so far as I can make out, in the UK but you can find their very attractive chardonnay and pinot noir.
3. Lemongrass and ginger fish croquettes with sauvignon blanc
If you’re in Constantia you’ll no doubt be drinking sauvignon blanc and while it obviously goes with all kinds of seafood it was the lemongrass and ginger top notes in these more-ish croquettes at Catharina, the fine dining restaurant at Steenberg, that totally hit the spot with Cape Point's 2017 Isliedh, their top-of-the-range sauvignon blanc.
4. Watermelon and riesling
You might think of pairing the rather fancy ‘compressed’ watermelon (a bit like a fruit-based carpaccio) at Jardine restaurant in Stellenbosch with sauvignon blanc - and that would work - but, more unexpectedly, it was really good with Jessica Saurwein’s deliciously crisp Chi riesling from Elgin (which is available in the UK from Swig and Handford Wines).
5. Shellfish and semillon
Faced with a rich seafood dish my mind turns immediately to chardonnay - especially if it’s accompanied, as this glorious dish of hake and shellfish (pictured above) at Vergelegen’s Camphors restaurant was, with sweetcorn, but the standout combination for me was with the 2014 vintage of the winery’s luscious sémillon. Just stunning. (The 2015 and 2016 are quite widely available in the UK)
6. Cauliflower and chardonnay
I toyed with the idea of including the pumpkin fritters and custard we had at lunch at Rietvallei wine estate in Robertson (with the savoury dishes, not as dessert!) which turned out to be a perfect match for their 2017 JMB chardonnay but decided you might baulk at trying it out on your friends. So I’m going - among the many great chardonnay pairings I encountered on the trip - for the braiied cauliflower with za’atar, kimchi and parmesan we were served at Protegé, an excellent new restaurant in Franschhoek. It went particularly well with Chris and Andrea Mullineux’ 2016 Leeu Passant chardonnay (the '15 is at Handford Wines) which proved capable of handling a fair bit of spice. (It was brilliant with the crayfish with curried piccalilli too.)
7. Gazpacho and rosé
One of three stunning starters we shared at Babel, the restaurant at design-conscious Babylonstoren. It was actually described as a ‘chilled summer Caprese-style soup with Fior de Laatte cheese and beetroot and red basil sorbet' and was just delicious - as they suggested - with their mourvèdre rosé (and with the two starter salads we had too).
8. Seared duck and fig salad and grenache (and pinotage too, come to that)
There are not many red wine pairings in this lineup, I know (South Africa is still more of a white wine country) but the bright, breezy incarnations of grenache and pinotage they’re making up in Swartland are just as good a match for duck as the usual suspect, pinot noir. The two that particularly stood out for me at Bill & Co in Malmesbury were the 2017 Grenache and Pinotage from David & Nadia which are available in the UK from Masters of Malt or by the case from Justerini & Brooks.
9. Charcuterie and Cinsault
The most consistently smashable red I came across in the 10 days I was in the Cape was cinsault which is being made very much in the Beaujolais style. So it stands to reason it would go with a charcuterie plate like the one at Joostenberg’s very appealing bistro (they also have a great deli on site too). The wine - which is made from old vines - is released under the Myburgh Bros. label - sadly not available in the UK at the time of writing.
10. Cheese and straw wine
I had some good pairings with straw wine - the grape-based dessert at Camphors again was lovely - but the big surprise was how well it went with cheese - in this particular instance a deeply coloured 2013 Boplaas from the Klein Karoo I had at my Twitter friend @bigbigjoe's. (The cheeses were a local gouda-style cheese called Williston from Langbaken cheeses, a French Vacherrouse and a manchego-style cheese from Spain made from a mixture of sheep & goat milk.)
If you're in the Cape Winelands wineries that do pairings particularly well are Creation, Pierneef at La Motte and Vergelegen’s Camphors.
I visited South Africa as a guest of Wines of South Africa.
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